The Ivy

The Ivy is instantly recognisable: white picket fencing, exuberant flowers, patterned china and a patio designed for a long, sunny lunch. The appeal is less about discovering an unknown address than stepping into a durable piece of Los Angeles theatre. American and Californian standards dominate the menu, from generous salads and crab cakes to grilled fish, pasta and celebratory desserts. Brunch is especially natural here, though a late lunch with a glass of rosé captures the room at its most relaxed. Prices include a premium for the setting and history, and the crowd can make service feel brisk at peak times. Reserve the patio if possible, dress with a little colour and accept the spectacle on its own terms. The Ivy remains useful because its fantasy is cheerful rather than severe: an established LA landmark that still knows how to make an ordinary afternoon feel like an occasion.