A Bica

Close to the Mercado dos Lavradores, A Bica is the antidote to every restaurant that confuses decoration with generosity. The basement room is plain, lively and usually busy; the welcome is direct, the prices kind and the portions capable of defeating unnecessary side orders. This is where to try the island’s everyday classics without ceremony: black scabbardfish, often paired with banana; grilled tuna; espetada; cod; prawns with garlic; and bolo do caco that disappears before the mains arrive. Ask how large a dish is before ordering for two - the answer may save an entire second meal. Vegetarian and gluten-free choices are available, but the heart of the menu remains fish, meat and the comforting logic of a local grill. Service has the warmth of a place that wants you properly fed rather than impressed at a distance. Come after the market, preferably hungry, and do not mistake the modest room for a modest experience. A Bica’s great talent is making abundance feel like hospitality rather than excess.