Restaurante O Forno

At Madeira’s far western edge, O Forno announces itself before the plate arrives: the smell of the outdoor oakwood grill drifts through the air and makes ordering restraint almost impossible. Begin with bolo do caco, ideally the gloriously excessive version loaded with garlic and melted cheese. Then look to the fire. Espetada is the obvious choice, but steaks, fish, chicken and the daily specials all benefit from smoke, char and the kitchen’s instinct for big flavours. This is not merely a carnivore’s address; vegetarian dishes appear too, and the board is often more interesting than a rigid menu. Save space for one of the homemade desserts associated with the family kitchen - grilled pineapple, banana and chocolate, or whatever the day has produced. The room is rustic, the welcome warm and the portions suited to travellers who have spent the morning walking near the lighthouse or the levadas. Book ahead when possible. Ponta do Pargo may feel like the end of the road, but O Forno turns that remoteness into part of lunch’s reward.