Taberna Ángel Sierra

Ángel Sierra occupies a privileged corner of Plaza de Chueca and an older rhythm of Madrid drinking. The tavern opened in 1908 and took its present name in 1917; carved wood, tin, old oak barrels, Sevillian tiles and ceiling paintings give the interior a density no decorator could convincingly reproduce. Order vermouth from the barrel, perhaps with olives, anchovies, an empanada or a small montadito. The bar room is the essential experience: crowded, standing and animated, with the side room available when a chair becomes necessary. Beer and wine are perfectly valid, but the vermouth explains the place most clearly, bitter-sweet and made for the pause before lunch. Ángel Sierra has appeared in an Almodóvar film, yet it does not behave like a monument. Regulars still claim the bar, conversation still rises over the tiles and the best visit may last twenty minutes or two hours. Terrace tables offer a view of Chueca; indoors gives you the tavern itself. Choose according to whether the weather or the walls matter more.