Pavyllon Paris - Pavillon Ledoyen

Pavyllon is the most relaxed way into Yannick Alléno's grand Pavillon Ledoyen, though relaxed should not be confused with casual. The restaurant is organised around a long counter facing the open kitchen, giving diners an unusually clear view of the precision behind each plate. Alléno's modern French vocabulary—carefully built sauces, fermentation, extraction and bright international accents—appears in dishes that are technically complex but designed to be immediately pleasurable. The counter is the place to sit for a first visit; the leafy terrace offers a different, more private experience in warm weather. Expect a substantial bill and allow the meal its full length, particularly if choosing a tasting sequence. Service is polished without becoming stiff, and the room encourages conversation with the kitchen. Pavyllon succeeds by making serious haute cuisine feel animated, visible and connected to the appetite of the guest.