Pétrelle

Before Covid, this house welcomed Mick Jagger, Lady Gaga, and Christian Lacroix. Since then, everything has changed. Goodbye bling-bling; hello intimacy, with a chic flea-market décor where candlelight sets the mood at dinnertime. Pétrelle is one of those places where you’d love to have your own napkin ring. Lucie Boursier-Mougenot’s cooking often surprises, sometimes unsettles, and always delights. How could anyone resist the duck caillette with garden salad and marinated beets? The scallops from Normandy with pear, ginger, and fresh goat cheese are movingly good. You’ll want to return for the lacquered pressed lamb with Paimpol coco beans. To skip the confit quince with ewe’s milk fontainebleau, pistachios, and rose vinaigrette would be a regrettable mistake. Reservation is essential, as lunch is served only on Saturdays and Sundays. Dinner from Wednesday to Sunday.