Shinjuku Pigalle

Shinjuku Pigalle understands that a Japanese neighbourhood restaurant can feel at home in Paris without sanding away either identity. The owners have kept the bones of an authentic 1950s café, then filled the room with cinema references and the convivial rhythm of an izakaya. The menu moves easily from gyoza, karaage and aubergine with miso to tonkatsu, curry, ramen, sashimi and grilled fish, with sourcing treated more seriously than the playful atmosphere first suggests. Order several starters, add one larger dish and let sake or a Japanese highball carry the meal. The room becomes lively at night and stays open late, so reservations help if you want a proper table rather than a spontaneous drink. Shinjuku Pigalle is particularly good for groups: informal enough for sharing, distinctive enough to feel like a night out, and full of personality without becoming themed.