Kalimeres Bistro

Kalimeres is more composed than the old tavernas elsewhere on this list, and that difference is useful. Set on pedestrian Taki Street in Psiri, it moves from a ground-floor bar to an upper dining space and a rooftop terrace with an Acropolis view. Come in the evening and make Greek wine the purpose. Ask the staff to guide you through indigenous varieties: an Assyrtiko or Malagousia for freshness, Moschofilero for perfume, Agiorgitiko for softness or Xinomavro when dinner requires more structure. The list also includes international bottles, but Athens is a good place to let unfamiliar Greek grapes lead. Mediterranean plates, cheeses and charcuterie allow the tasting to become a meal, while cocktails give non-wine drinkers a graceful alternative. The terrace is naturally the most requested space; book ahead for sunset and bring a light layer when the night cools. Kalimeres is sleek, social and occasionally louder than a dedicated tasting room. It works best as an introduction to contemporary Greek wine with the city spread around the glass, rather than as a solemn lesson in viticulture.