Madeira without spending much

Big portions, small prices and honest Madeiran cooking just behind the market.

Oakwood smoke, excellent bolo do caco and generous western-island cooking worth the drive to Ponta do Pargo.

A cold poncha at the end of São Lourenço’s volcanic trail, accessible only on foot or by boat.

A broad, dependable local menu where families can move from lapas and espada to espetada, seafood rice or pizza.

Part butcher, part communal barbecue: choose your espetada, grill it yourself and make friends around the fire.

A lively Santa Cruz tavern where lapas, octopus, tuna and poncha turn small plates into a very large evening.